Help with Little RP printer

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

no no I mean DECREASE!

Do you prepare PDMS by yourself???

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

yes i do

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

New try I lower the exposure time and with a new PDMS, see pic, I put the building plate not to close to the PDMS. Hopefully will work

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

Again t

he same issue it's seem that the projector is too strong could be the brightness and sharpness of the projector?

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

Adriano, you'll have to describe all the operations step by step to understand what's going on.

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

Nothing special fill the reading in the VAT and lower the build plate and start to print. Now I'm running another try the only difference that a reset the projector settings

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

Keep trying! I also asked Robin for help.

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

Video of the issue
http://dropmefiles.com/CVcoj

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

You Can clearly see that the issue is that the PDMS is getting ruin after few layers what that could be not enough PDMS too much lights?

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

apparently the FunToDo resin is not recommended with PDMS coating

, is there a way that i can change the type of coating of the VAT?

Thanks

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

I managed ti print One I'm happy with the finish but as you can see has been a issue with one layer which got stucked on the PDMS

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

Scale it down quite a bit quite pleased with the result what do you guy think?

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

Yeah!!!!! Congratulation! There are only some tiny little things left to fix!

What is VAT?

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

PDMS

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

How to calibrate the z steps?

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

Do you mean Z-compensation?

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

It seem the model came out squashed

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

It happens sometimes that the real layer thickness is not exactly 25 microns. It can be 25.2 or 24.5 Something like that. It means than the real height might be different than 3D. To compensate that there is a parameter called Z-compensation. But more likely z-comp. is used with higher forms. Normally It's about from 7 Cm from when the difference becomes visible. In your case If you see the difference in height it means that there is something wrong with your settings. Double check them. And if the problem remains do the next...

Prepare 3 boxes in Rhino, defined height of 10, 20 and 30mm. Build them and then measure them. Find the difference and than you can set the z-compensation coefficient to another models.

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

What's wrong with this pics?

Dmitry Medvedew · September 2016

I guess you missplaced a projector. Don't you?

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

I guess so I just starting from the basics.

robinhood · September 2016

Hey guys!

Sorry for showing up late to the party. I'll share my 2 cents, hopefully it'll help you to get going. Here's my experience with my own printer (Solus).

1- There should be a small gap (spacing) between the quartz and the film. If the film is too tight, you'll end up with fails. The littleRP has a PDMS so make sure there's some space between the buildplate and the VAT. Thickness wise, a thin paper should do.
2- In one of your pics, the markings left on the VAT are most likely bcz of OVER-exposure. Try lowering exposure times.
3- Supports! Proper support placement is key! A single unsupported area will cause the print to fail.
4- Your printing area and buildplate are off-center. In your last picture, you're printing outside of the buildplate. That means you'll have to adjust the position of the projector.

As for z-comp, I don't know much about that because I never have to deal with that with the Solus and the Contour software. BTW, are you double checking that your file is water-tight with Netfabb?

Adriano, you asked about which printer to get on the 3dcadjewelry forum and we all suggested you stick to one of the more mature printers like the Solus or the B9. You were advised that the lil'RP is a nightmare unless you're willing to go through all this calibration mess. But you have it now so have you checked this forum (http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=19) out? They have a dedicated section for the LittleRP.

It's a long thread and it seems you resolved some issues. What problems are you still experiencing?

robinhood · September 2016

Use this file for calibrating the grid: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q1t7ix2ca8j7dtw/AAA9zWtCCVSev9lASHnUkwPra?dl=0

Try projecting the grid when adjusting the position of the projector. BEWARE, projector's aren't supposed to be moved when turned on. Otherwise, you might burn and/or shorten the life of your bulb. So move it slowly and extremely gently just to adjust it accurately.

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

Thanks I mages to get the exposure right I need to calibrate the projector because does not print across the build plate

robinhood · September 2016

What resin is that, MJ WaxCast?

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

FunToDo

robinhood · September 2016

I thought you wanted to print models for casting. I've used B9 Cherry, B9 Yellow, and MJ WaxCast so far and WaxCast is my favorite so far. It's cheap, very forgiving (less fails), doesn't stick as much as B9 resins and it doesn't smell that bad. It's also requires less exposure times so it prints MUCH faster than other resins.

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

I have a bottle of castable FunToDo but I got a bottle of standard blend too to be able to set up the printer before actually use the castable one

Adriano Nocenzi · September 2016

On test what's wrong

frame

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