Nothing special fill the reading in the VAT and lower the build plate and start to print. Now I'm running another try the only difference that a reset the projector settings
It happens sometimes that the real layer thickness is not exactly 25 microns. It can be 25.2 or 24.5 Something like that. It means than the real height might be different than 3D. To compensate that there is a parameter called Z-compensation. But more likely z-comp. is used with higher forms. Normally It's about from 7 Cm from when the difference becomes visible. In your case If you see the difference in height it means that there is something wrong with your settings. Double check them. And if the problem remains do the next...
Prepare 3 boxes in Rhino, defined height of 10, 20 and 30mm. Build them and then measure them. Find the difference and than you can set the z-compensation coefficient to another models.
Sorry for showing up late to the party. I'll share my 2 cents, hopefully it'll help you to get going. Here's my experience with my own printer (Solus).
1- There should be a small gap (spacing) between the quartz and the film. If the film is too tight, you'll end up with fails. The littleRP has a PDMS so make sure there's some space between the buildplate and the VAT. Thickness wise, a thin paper should do. 2- In one of your pics, the markings left on the VAT are most likely bcz of OVER-exposure. Try lowering exposure times. 3- Supports! Proper support placement is key! A single unsupported area will cause the print to fail. 4- Your printing area and buildplate are off-center. In your last picture, you're printing outside of the buildplate. That means you'll have to adjust the position of the projector.
As for z-comp, I don't know much about that because I never have to deal with that with the Solus and the Contour software. BTW, are you double checking that your file is water-tight with Netfabb?
Adriano, you asked about which printer to get on the 3dcadjewelry forum and we all suggested you stick to one of the more mature printers like the Solus or the B9. You were advised that the lil'RP is a nightmare unless you're willing to go through all this calibration mess. But you have it now so have you checked this forum (http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=19) out? They have a dedicated section for the LittleRP.
It's a long thread and it seems you resolved some issues. What problems are you still experiencing?
Try projecting the grid when adjusting the position of the projector. BEWARE, projector's aren't supposed to be moved when turned on. Otherwise, you might burn and/or shorten the life of your bulb. So move it slowly and extremely gently just to adjust it accurately.
I thought you wanted to print models for casting. I've used B9 Cherry, B9 Yellow, and MJ WaxCast so far and WaxCast is my favorite so far. It's cheap, very forgiving (less fails), doesn't stick as much as B9 resins and it doesn't smell that bad. It's also requires less exposure times so it prints MUCH faster than other resins.
Комментарии
Do you prepare PDMS by yourself???
http://dropmefiles.com/CVcoj
Thanks
What is VAT?
Prepare 3 boxes in Rhino, defined height of 10, 20 and 30mm. Build them and then measure them. Find the difference and than you can set the z-compensation coefficient to another models.
Sorry for showing up late to the party. I'll share my 2 cents, hopefully it'll help you to get going. Here's my experience with my own printer (Solus).
1- There should be a small gap (spacing) between the quartz and the film. If the film is too tight, you'll end up with fails. The littleRP has a PDMS so make sure there's some space between the buildplate and the VAT. Thickness wise, a thin paper should do.
2- In one of your pics, the markings left on the VAT are most likely bcz of OVER-exposure. Try lowering exposure times.
3- Supports! Proper support placement is key! A single unsupported area will cause the print to fail.
4- Your printing area and buildplate are off-center. In your last picture, you're printing outside of the buildplate. That means you'll have to adjust the position of the projector.
As for z-comp, I don't know much about that because I never have to deal with that with the Solus and the Contour software. BTW, are you double checking that your file is water-tight with Netfabb?
Adriano, you asked about which printer to get on the 3dcadjewelry forum and we all suggested you stick to one of the more mature printers like the Solus or the B9. You were advised that the lil'RP is a nightmare unless you're willing to go through all this calibration mess. But you have it now so have you checked this forum (http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=19) out? They have a dedicated section for the LittleRP.
It's a long thread and it seems you resolved some issues. What problems are you still experiencing?
Try projecting the grid when adjusting the position of the projector. BEWARE, projector's aren't supposed to be moved when turned on. Otherwise, you might burn and/or shorten the life of your bulb. So move it slowly and extremely gently just to adjust it accurately.